TALLINN, Estonia – My two-hour walking tour around Tallinn’s 15th-century Old Town in February (str.sg/9Wgc, pay as you wish) is more than just a journey through mediaeval streets. It offers ...

Modern-day visitors to Tallinn may know the Hotel Viru as a focus of Finnish revelry in the heart of tourist Tallinn, but the building once provided Estonians with a rare glimpse of the western world.